Presto Part Finisher

Josh Smith ran across a excellent ABS post processing machine at Walmart, in the kitchen section.  It is the Presto Part Finisher, aka the Presto Kitchen Kettle Multi-Cooker Steamer.

He outlined his results in a post to Soliforum.  In short, pour a small amount of acetone in the bottom of the pot.  Place the prints in the basket, and turn the heat on just until the light comes on, maybe a little more.  The acetone vapor will begin to fill the pot until it begins to condense on the lid.  At that point, turn the heat off and pull the basket out of the pot, having left the prints in the vapor for about 30 seconds.  They can be touched after a few minutes, but will be a bit soft for 40-60 minutes.  I put screws into the bottom of the basket so it would sit higher above the acetone, and covered the bottom with Kapton tape to make a smooth surface.

Like my needlessly complicated DIY version, use this outside.  Also wear a respirator, or you are likely to have a sore throat for the rest of the day.  I put together a short video of me making a knob for my printer door, using Crysta-Line Topaz ABS from 3Dprintergear and http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30335, using the Presto at the end.

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15 thoughts on “Presto Part Finisher

  1. man let me tell you, i still do not have my printer runnig, but this is the greatest i have seen s far, after seeing your video i can not wait to get my own prints…
    EXCELLENT JOB AND THANKX FOR SHARING….

  2. Fantastic idea! Asked for a Presto Parts Finisher i mean “multicooker” for christmas. When I got my Solidoodle 3 Tried it out, and it was like magic! So easy to use! This is a great resource site for getting the most out of my solidoodle 3. THANKS!

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  4. Love this, but a couple concerns-
    First the Acetone fumes just scares me- even with a respirator, that is some nasty cancer causing crap. Secondly this works great with short prints, but I’m concerned it may not work as well for taller prints. As I understand it, the vapors only go so high as they are heavier than air, so I think the bottom half of a 150mm print will have a nicer surface than the top. Anyways, I just got my multicooker on Ebay to try this out for myself.

    • According to the Wikiepedia entry, the EPA took it off the list of toxic substances, because it was only toxic at levels more extreme than anyone would be exposed to, and didn’t find any evidence that it is carcinogenic. It is irritating, and might give you a scratchy throat if you don’t use a respirator or condenser coil. The vapor gets high enough when you heat it. It hits the lid of the Presto within 20-30 seconds, and I usually turn off the heat just before that point. The low vapors is a problem with room temperature or low heat methods. I only turn the presto on enough for the heat light to turn on, and a latte is hotter than boiling acetone, so high isn’t actually very hot.

      • Aside from the respirator, you still absorb acetone through your skin, eyes, etc. I did an initial test last night and really felt like like my cheeks were blushing afterwards. I love the technique and effect, but am not sure its really worth the exposure. I’m going to try refining my technique more this next weekend.

  5. If you are that concerned about exposure, go with the DIY solution in the other post. Pumping ice water through a copper coil at the top will completely contain the vapor. I could put my face over the top of the pot and not smell any acetone, even though I could see it bubbling at the bottom. That’s what industrial machines use for working with solvent vapor.

  6. Pingback: 3D Printing Tip of the week: Cheap Acetone Vapor Part Finisher | The Great Fredini's Cabinet of Curiosities

  7. Do you know what kind & length of screws you went with for the bottom? I just got this exact same kettle for this very reason. I was reading that that if you find a magic spot as a distance from the bottom, where the vapors are more evenly distributed, you get the best results.

    • The length of the bolts doesn’t matter. With heated acetone, the vapor fills the pot with enough density to smooth a print over the entire height. I usually shut it off and pull out the basket as soon as I see the vapor condense on the lid, maybe 30-40 seconds total. I prefer to do a few exposures with 15 minutes or so between them so the acetone doesn’t have a chance to go too deep into the print or degrade the details by melting too much in one shot. Also the effect continues for a while after you take it out, so if you pull it when it looks melted enough, it might not stop until it is melted too much.

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