I’ve always had trouble with ripping my Kapton tape. Prints are can be removed easily, without damaging the tape if the print bed cools down, but it takes so long to heat up, I hate to let it cool too much. Also, if I want to cancel a print and restart it right away with tweaked settings, I’m too impatient to cool it down first.
The solution is to forget the Kapton altogether. I went to a frame store and had a two pieces of glass cut to 6″ (a hardware store might be able to to this for you). I used small binder clips to hold it to the aluminum bed and heated it up. Originally I put Kapton on the glass, which was a lot easier to do outside the printer. However someone posted a tip on Thingiverse to use hairspray, and I found using that on the glass without Kapton worked great for ABS.
The great thing about using glass, is that when the print is done I can take the glass off and let it cool on the table without needing to turn off the heat. When I put a piece of glass back on to the bed, it only takes about a minute to warm up again. One thing to be aware of is the Z offset screw. My glass was about 3mm thick, so I needed to turn the screw down that far to keep the glass from hitting the nozzle when homing Z. If your screw doesn’t have that much space available at the top, you might need to get a longer one.
The problem with covering the aluminum with glass is that you can’t get to the leveling screws. This is easily solved by printing the thumbscrews here – http://www.soliforum.com/topic/242/thumbscrew-to-level-bed-from-beneath/ Just drop a little superglue inside and twist them on, letting the bolts cut the threads. The glue will hold them well enough to turn the bolts, but if you need to take them off, you can still break the bond.